• Deanna Utroske

2022 Preview: in-cosmetics Global Opens in Paris This Week

in-cosmetics Global has long been one of the most significant international tradeshows in the beauty care and personal care and fragrance industries—an expansive, important event where ingredient makers and distributors; clinical testing solution providers; regulatory compliance experts; and laboratory equipment suppliers convene to launch their latest innovations; showcase new science, tech, and trends; and otherwise do business with client prospects and long-standing partners.

A quick look back at the recent history of in-cosmetics Global

This week’s edition of in-cosmetics Global will be the first such show since 2019. That year, nearly 840 companies exhibited and over 12,000 attendees came through the doors of the Paris Expo Porte de Versailles.


Recall that 3 years ago, the cosmetics and personal care industry was just starting to embrace the indie beauty movement. in-cosmetics hosted its first Indie Trail feature in 2019, with some 34 beauty ingredient suppliers inviting entrepreneurs and aspiring brand leaders to stop and chat. Flashback and hear from the likes of Mibelle Biochemistry, Vytrus Biotech, Elementis, Clariant, ROELMI HPC, and more in this video tour that I recorded at that year’s show for CosmeticsDesign.


Other news highlights from the show floor that year include biodesign company Geltor’s launch of HumaColl21, a designer collagen that mimics human collagen. Manicouagan Clay from AEM Lab joined the roster of options available to brands leveraging the clay ingredient trend. We got an update from beauty tech device maker Cutitronics. And Horphag’s legacy ingredient Pycnogenol had the good fortune of not only decades of clinical data but also an alignment with 2019 trends.


Hundreds of beauty ingredient suppliers expected at in-cosmetics Global 2022

This year’s exhibitor directory boasts 732 companies (a figure down nearly 13% from 2019); and 100 of this year’s exhibitors are listed on the show site as ‘new’. Among the new suppliers at in-cosmetics Global this week will be Alula Peregrina Trading (stand C108) showcasing a dry-touch oil from the Peregrina tree with anti-aging, skin soothing, and DNA integrity protection benefits.


Carbonwave (stand B30) will be at the show this year, featuring Seabalance, which it describes as “the world's first seaweed-based cosmetic emulsifier.” And the ingredient maker seems to have a play in the Blue Beauty (eg planet-positive) movement claiming its biomaterial sourcing “[helps] to prevent methane emissions…and protect marine ecosystems in The Caribbean and Mexico.”


At stand W133 Natural Ingredients from Laos will be showing Indian Prickly Ash (Zanthoxylum Rhetsa) and Benzion Gum (Styrax Tonkinensis), both sourced from trees growing in that country.


Holiferm, at stand U100A, will be showing biosurfactants made using yeast derived from honey. But the most exciting tech that UK-based Holiferm uses in its ingredient production is a patented gravity separation process.


Jojoba Valley (stand C117), based in Israel, will be showing its portfolio of Jojoba oils, butters, waxes, etc., as well as having conversations with prospective ingredient distribution partners across Asia, South Asia, and Oceana.


Czech-based Nafigate Corporation (stand B72) will be showing upcycled ingredients made from used natural oils, used coffee grounds, the waste of beer brewing processes, etc.


Oriel (stand C113), out of Ireland, will be exhibiting its hero ingredient Oriel Magnesium and Marine Extracts, which is used as an exfoliant, an additive to formulation’s base water, a beauty supplement, and a skincare ingredient with anti-inflamatory benefits as well as apparently improving skin barrier function, hydration, and pH; bettering skin tensegrity, cell adhesion, cell proliferation, skin tone, and more.


The Swedish Algae Factory AB (stand B60) will be featuring its ALGICA ingredient—a cleanser, sensory modifier, and anti-pollutant. Testing also suggests that the ingredient may have an SFP boosting effect. ALGICA is the pure nanoporous shells of diatoms (a group of microalgae).


Covalo (formerly Chemberry), one of many digital ingredient discovery platforms to gain prominence since the start of the pandemic, will have stand (F41) at this year’s in-cosmetics Global tradeshow. The company, describes itself as “a comprehensive search platform that connects beauty brands with suppliers of ingredients, packaging, and services such as contract manufacturing, formulation, regulatory, compliance and testing.”


And Netherlands – based company Baseclear (stand C39) will be at the in-cosmetics Global this year too. Baseclear is renowned in and beyond the beauty industry for its work in microbial genetics.


Trend Spotting at in-cosmetic Global 2022

The online exhibitor directory can be filtered among 5 ingredient and formulation trends: CBD, Clean Beauty, Neurocosmetics, Personalization, and Waterless—all of which are ongoing industry trends very much informing ingredient and production innovation.


While, for the first time in a long time, I won’t be at in-cosmetics Global, I am keeping my eye on those 5 trends. And if I were to be at the show, I would also be on the lookout for microalgae technologies (like the one mentioned above from The Swedish Algae Factory), for innovations in clinical testing and ingredient development that facilitate truly inclusive beauty product development, and for insight into how suppliers are engaging in the beauty metaverse.


Of course, I know there will be even more to see than all of that. One of the best parts of attending in-person ingredient discovery shows is the serendipities and the juxtapositions of ideas that awaken the future of beauty right before your eyes.


Education and exploration at in-cosmetics Global 2022

This year, attendees will have access to Marketing Trends presentations, expert talks in the Sustainability Corner, Technical Seminars given by raw material suppliers, and the Formulation Lab where R&D pros and cosmetic chemists can learn new techniques.


This year’s in-cosmetics Global Awards will be held online and recipients will receive their awards at their respective stands during the show.


Each day of the show, there will be R&D tours. And, The Indie Trail will make a return at this week’s event in Paris, France. Both in-person and virtual event attendees will have access to a “comprehensive handbook [that] highlights the location and company details of exhibitors who supply ingredients and support a smaller production - helping you, as an indie brand visitor, navigate the event with greater efficiency, and create business opportunities that support your vision,” according to the show site.


Can’t make it to in-cosmetics Global?

There are plenty more events coming up!

Find a full list of 2022 cosmetics and personal care industry events here.

 

Subscribe to Beauty Insights from Deanna Utroske today!