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In The News: advanced microbial protection, DEI ingredient sourcing, digital ingredient discovery

Ashland expands R&D in Europe, First Nations suppliers working with Colgate-Palmolive, Lubrizol takes peptides into the metaverse

Photo by Kiriakos Verros on Unsplash

🧪🇩🇪R&D Overseas

One week ago, global specialty ingredients company Ashland announced the opening of a microbial protection R&D facility, serving the personal care industry, in Germany.

The new facility is an expansion of the company’s presence in that country and adds technical support professionals, product developers, microbiology testing experts, and researchers working with AI technology to the team there.

“We are proud to add this state-of-the-art, highly equipped laboratory to the Ashland portfolio for holistic solutions in choosing the right antimicrobial to safely protect cosmetic products that support today and tomorrow’s consumer needs,” said Tuttu Nuutinen, R&D Group Leader, Personal Care at Ashland, in an item (posted to the company’s website) spotlighting the new facility.

And in remarks she shared with the press, Nuutinen outlines the advantages this new facility brings to the industry, saying, “We are excited to add this state-of-the-art, highly equipped laboratory to the Ashland portfolio for a holistic approach to personal care solutions with a focus on helping customers choose the right antimicrobial to safely protect cosmetic, skin, hair, and oral care products. Our new capabilities will better support today and tomorrow’s increasing consumer needs for performance, safety and transparency.”

💋🌾Sourcing Ingredients to Effect Change

In Australia, Palmolive Skin Food hand and body cleansing products are not only formulated with botanical extracts sourced in that country (e.g. native river mint), but the widely sold products are now formulated with extracts supplied by First Nations growers.

“We have no illusions that the Palmolive brand alone can make a lasting impact on the prospects of First Nations growers,” concedes Anthony Crewes, Colgate-Palmolive Marketing Director, in his recent remarks to the press. “But,” he says, “we hope our step forward in forming meaningful partnerships inspires change amongst our industry.”

“Collectively, we can make a difference,” believes, Crewes. “We encourage all manufacturers to take a closer look at their supply chains and consider the conscious choice for authentic inclusion of our First Nations native plant growers within Australia.”

Regional ingredient supplier Native Extracts is the beauty maker’s connection to Indigenous agricultural business owners. And Lisa Carroll, Managing Director at Native Extracts echoes Crewes’ stance, saying: “If we can strengthen growth of the native ingredient supply chain, we can improve socio-economic outcomes for First Nation growers as well as amplify their important stories, which need to be heard.”

Colgate-Palmolive is working with ingredients from Dominic Smith of Pundi Produce, Pat Torres or Mayi Harvests, and Dan Newchurch of Newchurch Family Farms—and the company is also featuring these growers in an ad campaign. The campaign aims to “[tell] the stories of three First Nations growers, shining a light on their traditional agricultural practices, connection to land and culture. This series is running on NITV [National Indigenous Television] and is aimed at educating and inspiring First Nations involvement in the agriculture sector, directly addressing the issue of under-representation of First Nations peoples in the supply chain,” explains a press release that the Native Extracts team shared with me.

🥽🧪Digital Peptide Technology

In 2001, active ingredients specialist Lipotec launched Argireline, the now-popular acetyl hexapeptide-3 used in topical products to limit wrinkle formation. The ingredient destabilizes the SNARE protein complex thereby limiting muscle contraction. So Argireline is often touted as an alternative to injectable Botox treatments. (Argireline is a branded ingredient name and a registered trademark.)

In 2012, Lubrizol acquired Lipotec and, with it, Argireline. In 2020, Lubrizol launched Argireline Amplified, building on the original ingredient technology. The new version apparently “causes faster relaxation in young and aged muscle, helping to recover the skin appearance after facial expressions,” according to the company.

Just last month—in April 2023—Lubrizol announced a third Argireline ingredient called Argireline YOUth, which allows the ingredient to be formulated into even more product formats, most notably oil-based skincare such as transparent serums, oils, and sticks.

And now, the ingredient maker is taking Argireline into the metaverse, inviting cosmetic chemists and other product innovators to learn about this line of peptides in a virtual reality setting that offers educational content, networking, and an immersive experience that Lubrizol is calling the ‘Argireline peptide verse’.


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